Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes
Lyon
Lyon is a city break built around eating: base in Presqu'ile or Vieux Lyon, book a labelled bouchon a day ahead, and keep a half-day free for Beaujolais or the Alps.
Best length
2-3 nights
Airport
Lyon Saint-Exupery (LYS), ~25km east
Airport to centre
Rhonexpress tram ~29 min to Part-Dieu
Best base
Presqu'ile for first-timers; Vieux Lyon for old-town charm
In short
Lyon at a glance
Lyon is a 2- or 3-night city break built around eating: base yourself in Presqu'ile or Vieux Lyon, book a labelled bouchon at least a day ahead, take the Rhonexpress in from Saint-Exupery rather than a taxi, and keep a half-day free for Beaujolais, Perouges or the Alps.
The short version
- Stay in Presqu'ile for the easiest first trip; Vieux Lyon for Renaissance lanes and traboules; Croix-Rousse for a quieter, food-led local base.
- Book a 'Bouchons Lyonnais' labelled restaurant ahead: the unlabelled tourist versions on the main Vieux Lyon strip are where people eat badly.
- Take the Rhonexpress tram from Saint-Exupery (about 29 minutes) to Part-Dieu, and buy the ticket online (€16 single) rather than onboard, where a €4 surcharge applies.
- Two full days covers Fourviere, Vieux Lyon, Presqu'ile and a long lunch; a third day frees you for Beaujolais, Perouges or Annecy.
- Walk the riverbanks and traboules for free, and use TCL metro single tickets rather than taxis to cross between the two rivers.
Lyon is France’s eating city, and that shapes how you should plan a trip here. It sits where the Saône and the Rhône meet, with Renaissance Vieux Lyon and Roman Fourvière on the west bank, the Haussmannian Presqu’île peninsula in the middle, and the silk-weavers’ hill of Croix-Rousse rising to the north. You can see the headline sights in two days, which leaves the real decisions to the table: book a labelled bouchon a day ahead for quenelles and tarte aux pralines, and steer clear of the generic tourist restaurants packed along the main Vieux Lyon strip, where the city’s reputation goes to die.
Two full days is the practical minimum: one for Fourvière, the funicular and the old-town traboules, and one for Presqu’île, Croix-Rousse and a long lunch. A third night turns Lyon into a base — Beaujolais vineyards and the medieval village of Pérouges are both about half an hour out by train, Roman Vienne is the same, and Annecy’s Alpine lake is around two hours away. Below, the structured planning — where to stay, how to get in from Saint-Exupéry on the Rhônexpress, realistic costs in pounds and the best day trips — picks up from here.
Plan your Lyon trip
Keep a first trip focused: book the big timed sights, then leave room for neighbourhoods and food.
Top things to do in Lyon
Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière
Entry to the basilica, crypt and the panoramic esplanade is free — don't pay for a generic 'Fourvière tour' that's really just transport up the hill. Ride the F2 funicular up from Vieux Lyon on a standard €2.10 TCL ticket rather than walking the steep climb. Allow about an hour for the interior and the view; book the €14 guided rooftop tour only if you specifically want the roof structure, carillon and observatory terrace.
Fourviere and Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere
Fourviere is the hill crowning Lyon, topped by the white, gloriously over-the-top Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere. Ride the funicular up from Vieux Lyon for the city's best panorama and the lavish interior, both free to enter. The Roman theatres and Gallo-Roman museum sit just below if you walk back down.
Where to stay first
The areas that make a first visit easier — not an exhaustive directory.
Presqu'ile
££ mid-rangeThe Haussmannian peninsula between the two rivers, anchored by Place Bellecour. It is the easiest first base: central, walkable, well served by metro and a short hop from both Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse. Slightly pricier, but it saves a river crossing every day.
Best for: First-timers, couples, short stays
Vieux Lyon
££ mid-rangeCobbled Renaissance lanes at the foot of Fourviere, full of traboules and the heaviest bouchon traffic. Atmospheric and photogenic, but choose your restaurant carefully and expect tour-group footfall by day; charming and a little touristy.
Best for: History, atmosphere, old-town charm
Croix-Rousse
£ valueThe former silk-weaving hill just north of Presqu'ile: leafy squares, a real market and bohemian bars. More residential and a steep climb, but better value and a more local evening than the old town.
Best for: Food-led trips, value, repeat visitors
Confluence
££ mid-rangeThe redeveloped southern tip with modern architecture, the Confluences museum and a riverside mall. Good for design-minded stays and easy parking, but it is the least atmospheric base and a tram ride from the old-town sights.
Best for: Modern hotels, drivers, longer stays
Airport to city centre
| Option | Time | Cost | Book ahead? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rhonexpress tram to Part-Dieu | ~29 min | €16 single online (€17.10 at the machine); €4 surcharge onboard | Best for most arrivals; runs every 15 min |
| Rhonexpress + TCL metro to your area | ~40-50 min total | Rhonexpress fare plus a €2.10 TCL ticket | If your hotel is away from Part-Dieu |
| Taxi / private transfer | ~30-45 min | usually €50-€70+ | Good for late arrivals or groups |
When to go
Sweet spot: May, June, September and early October are the sweet spot: comfortable for walking the hills and riverbanks, terrace weather without high-summer heat, and ahead of the December crowds. Visit on 8 December for the Fete des Lumieres, when free light shows fill the centre, but book accommodation months ahead.
July and August are hot and quieter as locals leave; many bouchons close for summer holidays. December's Fete des Lumieres is the headline event but packs the city out, while winter otherwise suits museums and long lunches over sightseeing.
What it costs
Direct UK return flights to Lyon Saint-Exupery run roughly £40-£130 outside school holidays when booked ahead, with easyJet from Gatwick and Luton and BA from Heathrow; ski-season Saturdays and last-minute fares push prices well above that.
Daily budget per person
Eat the bouchon set menu (often around €30 for three courses, or €22 at lunch) rather than ordering a la carte, and book a 'Bouchons Lyonnais' labelled place to avoid the tourist-strip versions in Vieux Lyon.
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